17 July, 2015

PICCOLO FORNO and GRAPPERIA Bar Classico

Posted in : Restaurant Reviews on July 17, 2015 by : johnyrocko Tags: Italian, Pizza, Restaurant Review

 

My first trip to Italy was in 1996. It was a small little town called Trevi and it looked like a fairy tale village perched on a mountaintop. There was only one restaurant where we pretty much ate every night. The mother worked in the kitchen, the father worked the register and the bar, and Tony, the son, was the waiter. The food was transcendent. Subtle, fresh, delicate, flavorful, and unquestionably made with love.

My second trip was in 2004 and this time we stayed just outside of Florence in the Bagno A Ripoli region. Florence is where I had the best Margherita Pizza ever and I use it as the benchmark for all future pizza to be judged. Piccolo Forno, located 3801 Butler Street in Lawrenceville, is the closest thing to actually being in Tuscany that I’ve found in Pittsburgh.

We went for the first time on a Thursday night in early June. It was a mild, dry evening and the warm sunlight reflected off the second story windows of the row houses down 38th Street. I parked on the narrow street across from a man on his stoop who was almost hidden in a mix of houseplants and American flags. Since Piccolo Forno is BYOB, we decided to get a drink at Grapperia which is on 38th. We sat at the bar and the bartenders were friendly and welcoming. We each had a Cosmopolitan which was perfectly prepared.

You can also purchase wine by the bottle here to take to the restaurant.

We headed up to the restaurant and saw an adorable punk rock family of three at the outside corner table, just as their pizzas came out. The next table was an Asian couple, possibly a first date, and the other tables were a group of Baby Boomers. It was a great night to sit outside.

After we entered, we were greeted very pleasantly and taken to our seat. The atmosphere is subdued in color, but bright with conversation and people clearly enjoying their time.
Each night we shared three offerings from the menu. Each was nicely prepared, nicely presented, and delicious.

For appetizers, the fist night we had the Crostini di Polenta (Baked Polenta Squares topped with Gorgonzola Spread, Mushroom Tapenade, and Balsamic Grape Tomatoes). It was very good, but the ones with the Balsamic Grape Tomatoes were the standout.

The next time, we had the Bruschetta which came three different ways, Goat Cheese and Roasted Tomato Compote, Cannellini Bean Spread with Arugula Pesto, and Olive Tapenade. The bread was perfectly toasted and the toppings weren’t overloaded. Our favorite was the goat cheese and roasted tomato compote and the third time we came we ordered all the bruschetta with that (which they are happy to do if you prefer one or the other).

Mom said the Margherita Pizza was outstanding and I couldn’t agree more. Very thin crust with delicious sauce and a thin, even layer of cheese, making it taste fresh, flavorful, and satisfying. The Cavatelli Pasta was like Spring in a bowl with Asparagus, Peas, Lemon juice, Artichokes, and Sausage. It was vibrant in taste and color, engaging your nose with the fresh herbs and the pasta was al dente.

We were quite satiated and decided to pass on the desserts that night. We left happy. As we walked back to the car we decided to come back again next week.
“Purely for research purposes mind you,” I clarified jokingly.

When we came the next time, we stopped into Grapperia and all the bartenders greeted us like we were regulars. They were very friendly and the drinks were top notch. Mom had a Negroni.

At dinner we had the Bruschetta, the Margherita Pizza, and a tender, mushroom-filled pasta. The pasta is without question homemade and was very, very tender. The filling was tasty.

The third night we went, Grapperia was packed, but the bartenders still greeted us and encouraged us to sit anywhere. We sat at a table with some Pitt students. They were friendly and lived in Lawrenceville, but just discovered this place a few weeks ago. I think we had some Jameson that night.

At the restaurant, we had the Bruschetta, all with the goat cheese, marinated tomatoes and caramelized onions, and it was great! For Pizza, we chose the Prosciutto e Rucola, which had crushed tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, prosciutto and arugula. Again, just like the Margherita, it was excellent. Then we had the lasagna with beef, homemade noodles and a béchamel sauce.

“I think this is more like Northern Italian Cuisine,” Mom said. “The sauce tastes of cinnamon or cardamon. It was very flavorful, just not the garden variety of lasagne.”
“The only criticism of the pasta, which I know is homemade, is the texture of the noodles. It doesn’t stand on its own, it just blends with the sauce and the cheese and the meat.”

I think this was just a fluke because I’ve heard many people rave about the lasagne and homemade pasta is very delicate. I also have no doubt they would have happily replaced it but we ate most of it (because it was pretty good).

FINAL THOUGHTS

We both love the Bruschetta very much and the pizza is excellent. The people working in the restaurant are very friendly and accommodating. They make you feel welcome.

Parking can be a challenge on the narrow streets, but you’ll find something.

Stop in to Grapperia and pick up some wine to have with dinner or just enjoy some well-made cocktails.

We definitely recommend Piccolo Forno for a light, relaxing, culinary trip to Tuscany.

Piccolo Forno, 3801 Butler Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15201

412.622.0111

More about Chef Antonio Branduzzi and the story of Piccolo Forno
More about GRAPPERIA Bar Classico